Sometimes a sewing machine just doesn’t cut it and we need to hand stitch. Here are the basics of hand stitching, with 5 common types of stitches that you may use, as well as the basics of when to use each type of stitch. Good luck with all your hand stitching endeavors!

Starting off:

When hand stitching, you need to knot your thread tie off your thread into a knot to catch it on your fabric, and hide the knot on the back or inside of your fabric. I always double up my thread to give my stitches a little more strength. Make your knot by looping the thread around your fingers, then sliding the end of the thread through the loop twice. Next pull both sides of the thread to create the knot.

Knot for hand stitching: knotting thread by looping it around fingers and pushing end through loop twice, then pulling

Running Stitch

This is the most simple type of stitch, use this for

  • basting
  • gathering
  • basic seams

To sew this hand stitch, start on the back of your fabric and pull your needle through to the top, then push the needle back through the top to the back about 1/8-1/4 of an inch away from where your thread is. How big you make your stitches depends on what you are sewing. If you are basting or gathering, make your stitches larger. If you are making a seam, you will want your stitches to be 1/8 inch long or smaller.

When you are done, finish off with a knot, to do this flip your fabric to the back and stick your needle through a small part of the fabric. This creates a loop, put your needle through this loop and pull.

Back Stitch

This stitch is used:

  • In clothing
  • for embroidery to create an outline or lettering
  • anytime a strong seam is necessary

To perform a back stitch, start by pulling your needle from the back to the front of your fabric. Make a small stitch so your needle is on the back. Bring your needle out the front again, about 1/8 inch away from your first stitch, then put your needle in touching your first stitch. When you’re done tie a knot the same way you would with a running stitch.

Whipstitch

This stitch is used:

  • to close the sides of two fabrics together (such as pillows)
  • as a decorative stitch
  • to hem jeans

Make a Whipstitch by starting with your knot on the inside of your fabric, a bit below the edge, loop your thread over to the back and pull through. Pull your thread just tight enough to touch your fabric, but not bunch it up.

When you need to finish off this fabric, make a knot by doing one more stitch and catching the loop before you pull it tight. Pull your needle through the loop to create another loop and pull your needle through that to create a knot.

Blanket Stitch

This stitch is used for

  • finishing the edges of fabric, such as a blanket
  • finishing a button hole

To perform this stitch you will want to make sure your knot is on the back or inside. Pull the thread through the fabric about a quarter inch or so below the edge of the fabric. Pull your needle through the back to make a loop. Repeat, but this time after you pull your needle through the front, you will put the needle through the loop you made before starting your next loop. When you have completed this stitch all the way around your fabric make a knot.

To tie off a knot, make one more stitch like normal, but once you put your needle through the loop, put your needle through one more time and pull.

Ladder Stitch

This stich is used for

  • closing an open seam invisibly

To perform this stitch, you will be working on an open seam with the edge pressed down. Start your knot on the inside so it is invisible. You will be sewing right at the fold, start on one side and put your needle in the fabric parallel from where your thread comes out. Pull your needle through the side you are on. Insert your needle into the opposite side parallel from where your thread came out. Repeat this a few times before pulling your thread so it is not longer visible and the seam is closed.

To tie off your knot, pull your needle through a small amount of fabric and make a loop. Pull your needle through the loop and pull to form a small knot. For added strength, pull your needle under your knot, leaving a loop, and pull your needle through that loop to make another knot around your original knot.

Hand Stitching: 5 common types of stitches
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